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SEGMENT 1: LAS VEGAS, NEVADA TO ST. GEORGE, UTAH
Sin City and Utah’s Dixie, St. George, two cities with very different histories and very different atmospheres but both built in rather unlikely desert locations. The first segment of the Plateau Passage connects these towns via Lake Mead National Recreation Area, the Virgin River corridor, and the rocky Virgin Mountains. It’s dry desert riding through the eastern edge of the Mojave Desert. After riding through the suburbs of Vegas, the route crosses Las Vegas Wash, and suddenly you’re out of town and in barren desert. Twelve miles of 4x4 road through the canyons of Rainbow Gardens is followed by 50 miles of quiet, rolling pavement (the longest paved stretch of the entire route) through Lake Mead National Recreation Area and along the southern edge of the Muddy Mountains. Then the sandstone canyons of Valley of Fire State Park link up to the loose ATV trails through a stunning redrock canyon before the small towns of Logandale and Overton. Northeast of Overton, the route climbs dirt road onto Mormon Mesa and high above the Virgin River. The Virgin Mountains, the major topographic challenge of this segment, stand mightily to the east. Dropping off Mormon Mesa, a 4x4 track following powerlines for 10 miles leads to 8 miles of pavement to reach the town of Mesquite, known for its casinos and golf courses. It’s buffet dinners and cheap motel rooms might be of more interest to bikepackers. After Mesquite, getting over the Virgin Mountains involves a rugged 5,000-foot climb over 15 miles, a hidden Joshua tree forest, and a nice spring near the top of the climb. From the summit, 40 miles of mostly downhill 4x4 tracks leads into the St. George Basin, home to St. George, its cotton fields, and plenty of great mountain biking. The bustling and rapidly growing town of St. George has become the retirement capitol of Utah given its low elevation and relatively mild climate. Leaving town, the route follows bike path along the Virgin River and then a series of steadily smaller roads heading southeast toward the heart of the Arizona Strip. Through Warner Valley, 4x4 roads meander through very arid badlands and mesas (some relatively short sections of the route in this area get sticky when wet!) before climbing up the Hurricane Cliffs on what is known as the Honeymoon Trail. This steep trail is an old Mormon route used in the late 1800s by newlyweds from the remote regions hundreds of miles to the east traveling to the St. George Temple to have their marriages blessed. The Hurricane Cliffs themselves represent the western edge of the Colorado Plateau region. There’s no reliable water between St. George and Virgin, so plan accordingly. Once atop the cliffs, the route heads north, joins the popular Gem Trail singletrack, and crosses the Virgin River at the tiny town of Virgin. And then the climbing begins, beginning at 3,000 feet and topping out at over 9,000 feet as the route begins to traverse the high plateaus of central Utah. The route up follows the Kolob Terrace Road through the northwestern part of Zion National Park past towering sandstone cliffs. After some high-elevation gravel roads, trail drops down rapidly to Cedar City. The final part of this segment climbs a paved road up nearly 4,000 feet to join the Virgin River Rim singletrack on the southern edge of the Markagunt Plateau. Midway through this trail is Navajo Lake, a small store, a campground, and a lodge.
Segment length: 203
miles Total climbing: 15,000 feet Recommended number of days: 3-4+ % Paved (approx.): 45% % Dirt road (approx.): 20% % 4x4 road/2-track (approx.): 35% % Singletrack (approx.): 0% % Rideable (approx.): 96% Average physical difficulty (1-10): 4-5 Average technical difficulty (1-10): 4-5 Bikepacking challenges: Limited water, limited resupply options, remote, summer heat Longest stretch between resupply (miles/days): 75 miles / ~2 days Longest stretch between water sources (miles/days): 40 miles / 1 day (although it is 70 miles from Las Vegas to the next water immediately on route; water is available ~4 miles off route at two different campgrounds in that 70-mile stretch.) Recommended printed topographic maps: ● Clark County Trails Map (free PDF download; not particularly useful) ● Trails Illustrated #204 (Lake Mead National Recreation Area) ● BLM Arizona Strip Vistors Map West (free PDF download) ● Saint George/Springdale, Utah Trail Map (free PDF download)
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SEGMENT 2: ST. GEORGE TO NAVAJO LAKE
The bustling and rapidly growing town of St. George has become the retirement capitol of Utah given its low elevation and relatively mild climate. Leaving town, the route follows bike path along the Virgin River and then a series of steadily smaller roads heading southeast toward the heart of the Arizona Strip. Through Warner Valley, 4x4 roads meander through very arid badlands and mesas (some relatively short sections of the route in this area get sticky when wet!) before climbing up the Hurricane Cliffs on what is known as the Honeymoon Trail. This steep trail is an old Mormon route used in the late 1800s by newlyweds from the remote regions hundreds of miles to the east traveling to the St. George Temple to have their marriages blessed. The Hurricane Cliffs themselves represent the western edge of the Colorado Plateau region. There’s no reliable water between St. George and Virgin, so plan accordingly. Once atop the cliffs, the route heads north, joins the popular Gem Trail singletrack, and crosses the Virgin River at the tiny town of Virgin. And then the climbing begins, beginning at 3,000 feet and topping out at over 9,000 feet as the route begins to traverse the high plateaus of central Utah. The route up follows the Kolob Terrace Road through the northwestern part of Zion National Park past towering sandstone cliffs. After some high-elevation gravel roads, trail drops down rapidly to Cedar City. The final part of this segment climbs a paved road up nearly 4,000 feet to join the Virgin River Rim singletrack on the southern edge of the Markagunt Plateau. Midway through this trail is Navajo Lake, a small store, a campground, and a lodge. Segment length: 147 miles Total climbing: 16,000 feet Recommended number of days: 4-5+ % Paved (approx.): 25% % Dirt road (approx.): 25% % 4x4 road/2-track (approx.): 30% % Singletrack (approx.): 20% % Rideable (approx.): 97% Average physical difficulty (1-10): 4-5 Average technical difficulty (1-10): 5-6 Bikepacking challenges: Limited water, limited resupply options, summer heat, minimally maintained trails Longest stretch between resupply (miles/days): 75 miles / 2+ days Longest stretch between water sources (miles/days): 50 miles / 1+ days Recommended printed topographic maps:
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SEGMENT 3: NAVAJO LAKE TO BOULDER TOWN
This segment traverses southern Utah’s most scenic plateaus, the Markagunt, the Paunsaugunt, and the Aquarius Plateaus. Beginning on the Markagunt at Navajo Lake, the route continues on the rugged Virgin River Rim singletrack along the edge of the Pink Cliffs before dropping off the plateau on the Harris Rim ATV track. A gas station at Long Valley Junction provides a simple resupply option before climbing onto the Paunsaugunt Plateau, home to Bryce Canyon National Park. The route follows the edge of the plateau on the demanding Grandview Trail, sometimes up at the rim and other times well below it. Eventually, the route leaves the Grandview Trail, hops on the Skutumpah Road, and heads north into the small town of Tropic, named for its relatively mild winters, uncharacteristic for the region. Leaving Tropic, a 2,000-foot climb up a highway along the edge of scenic Bryce Canyon National Park is followed by rugged ATV track of the Great Western Trail, leading to Pine Lake Reservoir. A steep forest road climb tops out at over 10,000 feet atop the Aquarius Plateau at a junction for a mandatory side trip out to take in the vista from Powell Point. The views from there are absolutely unparalleled. The final 75 miles of Segment 3 traverses the Aquarius Plateau, first along its edge on gravel roads before dropping off the side and following a mix of backcountry singletrack and 4x4 roads to a final descent into Boulder Town. The views are huge, temperatures relatively cool, water plentiful by comparison to most of the rest of the Plateau Passage, and the singletrack delightfully rideable in places and faint with downed trees in others. Boulder Town itself is a tiny community nestled at the edge of canyon country with a couple tiny stores, a motel, a few restaurants, and a fancy lodge. Segment length: 213 mi Total climbing: 22,000 feet Recommended number of days: 5-6+ % Paved (approx.): 12% % Dirt road (approx.): 20% % 4x4 road/2-track (approx.): 33% % Singletrack (approx.): 35% % Rideable (approx.): 92% Average physical difficulty (1-10): 7 Average technical difficulty (1-10): 6-7 Bikepacking challenges: Limited water, limited resupply options, remote, summer heat, minimally maintained trails Longest stretch between resupply (miles/days): 106 miles / 2-3+ days Longest stretch between water sources (miles/days): 35 singletrack miles / <1 day Recommended printed topographic maps:
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SEGMENT 4: BOULDER TOWN TO MONTICELLO
Segment 5 is the most remote of the Plateau Passage, immediately entering canyon country, climbing over two isolated mountain ranges, and reaching Monticello some 230+ miles later. The scenery is spectacular, and the sheer scale of this Colorado Plateau landscape is difficult to fathom. There are no resupply options between Boulder Town and Monticello, and water is scarce, so careful planning is required. The first 60 miles of the segment follow the relatively famous Burr Trail Road and Notom Road from Boulder Town toward Capital Reef National Park. The riding is generally fairly fast on these mostly graded dirt roads. But then the route turns upward and climbs 5,000 feet toward the peaks of the Henry Mountains on 4x4 roads. This was the final mountain range in the Lower 48 to be mapped. From Bull Mountain Pass, just a few hundred feet lower than the adjacent summits, a 4x4 road descent drops back down 5,000 feet, followed by another 1,000-foot descent on a quiet highway to the route’s Colorado River crossing near Hite. A former townsite, Hite now has little more than a little gas station/store (don't plan on anything fancy, but very basic provisions can be purchased here), a campground, and a ranger station for Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. After Hite, the route climbs gradually among redrock buttes and narrow canyons on 4x4 roads toward Elk Ridge and the iconic pair of mesas known as Bears Ears. The views off both sides of this long, narrow ridgeline are dramatic, and the riding becomes relatively easy on the well-maintained graded road. Elk Ridge leads to the base of the Abajo Mountains (also known as the Blue Mountains), this segment reaches its terminus at Monticello by skirting around the southern side of the Abajos on graded dirt roads and a few miles of rugged ATV trail. Monticello is another small Colorado Plateau town but has a grocery store, lodging options, and numerous restaurants. Segment length: 234 miles Total climbing: 19,000 feet Recommended number of days: 4-5 days % Paved (approx.): 20% % Dirt road (approx.): 30% % 4x4 road/2-track (approx.): 30% % Singletrack (approx.): 0% % Rideable (approx.): 98% Average physical difficulty (1-10): 5-6 Average technical difficulty (1-10): 4-5 Bikepacking challenges: Limited water, limited resupply options, remote, summer heat, minimally maintained trails Longest stretch between resupply (miles/days): 233 miles / 4-5 days Longest stretch between water sources (miles/days): 60 miles / 1+ days Recommended printed topographic maps:
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SEGMENT 5: MONTICELLO TO NUCLA, COLORADO
Classic Colorado Plateau canyon country continues in Segment 5 of the Plateau Passage with the world-famous landscapes of Canyonlands National Park and the Moab area. It begins in Monticello with an immediate 4,000-foot climb to the crest of the Abajo Mountains. The climb begins on pavement, turns to a graded, narrow gravel road for the second half, and then turns to a steep singletrack for the last grunt to a stunning saddle. Below, one of the greatest singletrack descents in the West awaits, descending 5,000 feet. At the bottom, the route turns west toward Canyonlands National Park. A spur to the Needles Outpost Store provides a water and resupply option, and then the road to Moab leads through Lockhart Basin. This quiet, 40-mile-long 4x4 track traverses beneath towering sandstone cliffs and above the Green River. Rolling into Moab, the bustle of the desert tourist town and mountain bike mecca may be a bit overwhelming after days in the quiet desert. Moab offers just about any amenity needed by a bikepacker, and a 6,000-foot climb into the La Sal Mountains waits just outside of town. The climb is entirely on a quiet gravel road, topping out at La Sal Pass. On the back side of the La Sals, a network of moto singletrack followed by gravel road link up to Buckeye Reservoir and campground. At that point, the route joins what’s known as the Paradox Trail for the remainder of the segment. The Paradox Trail is a series of mostly remote, rough 2-tracks, 4x4 roads, and occasional trail linked together by the Colorado Plateau Mountain Bike Association. After a traverse of Carpenter Ridge, the route dives down to the Dolores River on a very rough uranium haul road from the 1950s. The uranium and vanadium mining boom following World War II was huge in this area, and the evidence of the mines (including piles of radioactive tailings) is widespread. The sprawling Uncompahgre Plateau looms above the Dolores River, and the Paradox Trail climbs up the plateau’s flanks before traversing countless drainages. The going is slow, rough, and stark in its beauty, but after 25 miles, the route begins to trend downward on newly-constructed Paradox Trail singletrack leading to just above the tiny community of Nucla, the end of Segment 5. Riders will find little more than a small market, a restaurant one mile off-route in Nucla, and plentiful guns (the town requires by law that every household have a firearm of some sort). But folks are friendly and the pace of life is comfortably slow.
Segment length: 231
miles Total climbing: 21,500 feet Recommended number of days: 5-6+ % Paved (approx.): 15% % Dirt road (approx.): 20% % 4x4 road/2-track (approx.): 50% % Singletrack (approx.): 15% % Rideable (approx.): 90+% Average physical difficulty (1-10): 6-8 Average technical difficulty (1-10): 6-8 Bikepacking challenges: Limited water, limited resupply options, remote, summer heat, minimally maintained trails Longest stretch between resupply (miles/days): 120 miles / 3+ days Longest stretch between water sources (miles/days): 63 miles / 1-2 days Recommended printed topographic maps:
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SEGMENT 6: NUCLA TO DURANGO
The end of the Plateau Passage is not far away, but a few spectacular, tall, and jagged mountain ranges stand between Nucla and Durango. Segment 6 begins with a 4,000-foot climb to the crest of the Uncompahgre Plateau on a mix of more Paradox Trail singletrack, gravel roads, and 4x4 tracks. Once on the crest, the gravel Divide Road carries riders southeast toward the mighty San Juan Mountains. A brief descent to near the town of Ridgeway brings the route to the base of the Sneffels Range, and nestled at the base of these craggy peaks is the amazing mountain singletrack of the Dallas Trail. At the east end of the trail is the little town of Ouray, deep in one of the stunning valleys that earned this area the nickname of the American Alps. Ouray offers basic resupply options, restaurants, and lodging. Beyond Ouray, more steep climbing awaits. It begins with a few miles on the scenic Highway 550 before aiming toward the sky and Engineer Pass on rough, popular 4x4 roads. Just before Engineer Pass proper, the route turns south, descends a steadily-improving gravel road to the old mining community of Silverton, and then the climbing resumes. Pavement leads to dirt road leads to a 4x4 track leads to an old pack trail to the summit of Rolling Mountain Pass at over 12,000 feet above sea level, the high point of the Plateau Passage. More singletrack follows, including the well-known Engineer Mountain Trail descent to near Purgatory Resort. A short dirt road climb leads to the ~20-mile-long Hermosa Creek Trail, and from the south end of that trail, there is a mere 20 miles of pavement to reach Durango, the end of Segment 6 and the eastern terminus of the Plateau Passage. Really ambitious riders may opt to begin the Colorado Trail in Durango and continue another 485 miles to Denver through the heart of the Colorado Rockies. But wrapping up the 1,200+ miles of the Plateau Passage will stand as in incredible accomplishment in and of itself. Segment length: 189 mi Total climbing: 23,000 feet Recommended number of days: 4+ % Paved (approx.): 15% % Dirt road (approx.): 25%% % 4x4 road/2-track (approx.): 25% % Singletrack (approx.): 35% % Rideable (approx.): 90% Average physical difficulty (1-10): 6-7 Average technical difficulty (1-10): 5-7 Bikepacking challenges: Limited water, limited resupply options, remote, summer heat, minimally maintained trails Longest stretch between resupply (miles/days): 94 miles / 2+ days Longest stretch between water sources (miles/days): <30 miles / <1 day Recommended printed topographic maps:
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